expired Posted by Rokket | Staff • Dec 30, 2023
Dec 30, 2023 1:13 AM
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expired Posted by Rokket | Staff • Dec 30, 2023
Dec 30, 2023 1:13 AM
2-Pack 20V MAX XR Premium Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah Battery + Charger + FREE Tool (Choice of 12) $199 + Free Shipping
$199
$538
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Such as, for a 1/4" driver do you want a DCF809 or DCF887 or a DCF787? One is 2 speeds, while the other are 3 yet one of those has a precision drive.
For a hammer drill you may want a DCD996, the tried a true version, or the newer DCD999 for Flexvolt technology (which may only be useful with newer high-amp batteries?) or the DCD998 with Power Detect.
Are these all marketing differences, or is a there a key reason to have these additional features over an older model?
Don't even get me started on the drill-drivers...
Most of the sites I find seem to be AI-generated BS as they get key facts wrong and just "talk" about the differences and not what they means for a contractor or a DIY, I'm specifically keen on the prosumer concept. I'd *like* to buy my last drill. (battery-technology wise I know that's unlikely)
I'd appreciate if someone had a favorite or two tool review sites to share, or even experienced input on these ideas on selecting specific models, thank you!
Such as, for a 1/4" driver do you want a DCF809 or DCF887 or a DCF787? One is 2 speeds, while the other are 3 yet one of those has a precision drive.
For a hammer drill you may want a DCD996, the tried a true version, or the newer DCD999 for Flexvolt technology (which may only be useful with newer high-amp batteries?) or the DCD998 with Power Detect.
Are these all marketing differences, or is a there a key reason to have these additional features over an older model?
Don't even get me started on the drill-drivers...
Most of the sites I find seem to be AI-generated BS as they get key facts wrong and just "talk" about the differences and not what they means for a contractor or a DIY, I'm specifically keen on the prosumer concept. I'd *like* to buy my last drill. (battery-technology wise I know that's unlikely)
I'd appreciate if someone had a favorite or two tool review sites to share, or even experienced input on these ideas on selecting specific models, thank you!
I have way too many tools. I have the 996... an absolute monstrous beast! That has 3 speeds and different selectors but I just keep it on drill and have NOT EVER ran into a problem. I'm building a 12x12 shed and I just used that to drive 1/4" diameter by 6" long lag screws through both double top plates and into the bottoms of the trusses. No pre-drilling, and certainly NO problem. In fact, if I wasn't careful, I would have drilled them right through everything!!! (no joke).
I do not use that as my everyday drill though. I only bust it out when I know I need power (it is heavy).
My everyday drill WAS the Makita LXT sub-compact drill. It was powerful, on the lighter side, and small-ish. I recently retired them (I had 2 of that model and the matching hammer drill) and have been using a Milwaukee M12 fuel drilll. I have the kit (drill/impact driver) but I don't really mess with the impact drivers. THey're loud and I really haven't had the need to use them because I have had no issues getting screws into treated lumber, or tap cons into masonry, or self tappers into sheet metal with the regular M12 Fuel drill (I have the M18 fuel and non-fuel drill also but haven't used either of them yet).
I have the dewalt 12v lineup as well and I did use the drill for assembling a bunch of furniture I bought off wayfair when I moved 2 years ago.
When I say I am building a shed, I mean, from the ground up. Assembling walls, door/window/garage door frames, securing it to the foundation (4" thick with 5-6" edges). For the redheads I used a Milwaukee rotary hammer using the depth guide. I did drill through the bottom plate using a different drill (the makita) with a 1/2" wood bit, then switched to the SDS rotary with 1/2" masonry. Shop vacced the dust out using a Hart battery power shop vac. I have my trusses up but not the decking yet (this weather has been royally p!ssing me off) so I have tarps over the trusses... still a little water gets in and pools in the back corner, but I go in once a day with my Hart battery shop vac and suck all the water up. I have many batteries but usually 1 4AH battery (20v) does the trick and I still have around 2 bars left (out of 4). I have a Hart weed eater and hedge trimmer, power washer, and other non-buidling tools... and I am pleased with that part of the Hart lineup. (Not sure I would trust the drills for doing some of the things... like putting those lag screws through double top plate into the truss)....
Sorry so long, but again, it all depends on what you want to use your tools for. There are many instances that tools are 'geared' for but people find many other uses for them... like crown staplers for tons of projects besides crown moulding. Using a router as with an edging bit for door/window cutouts... if you ask some old timers that spent decades in the trade (Home Depot and Lowes will hire them in their retirement years for a few hours a week) about doing that and they will scoff at you and tell you a jigsaw is the way to go. My dad would plunge cut with a circular saw for cutouts.
So again, use your tools for whatever you want to use them for. Yes, there are some tools that are ONLY for specific uses, like the Milwaukee insulated 1" staple gun. That tool ONLY accepts Milwaukee 1" insulated staples and you would use that for romex.... but for drills, drivers, impact wrenches, hammer drills, use whichever makes the job easiest and is most comfortable for you.... just make sure you have the power available when u need it!